Bacalhau in Portugal: Why Salt Cod Is the Heart of Portuguese Cuisine taken Lisbon (food)

There’s a saying in Portugal about there being a different recipe of codfish for each day of the year. Is that actually true? Maybe, but it sure says a lot about the Portuguese love of codfish.

There’s a famous saying in Portugal: there’s a different recipe for codfish for every day of the year. Is it literally true? Maybe not—but it captures something real. Few foods are as deeply tied to a country’s identity as bacalhau (salted cod)is to Portugal.

If you want to understand that connection, start at the Centro Interpretativo da História do Bacalhau, located in Lisbon’s iconic Praça do Comércio (Terreiro do Paço). This modern, interactive museum tells the story of Portugal’s centuries-long relationship with cod—from the icy waters of Newfoundland and Greenland to the Portuguese table.

Inside, exhibits like “The Sea” and “On the Table” show how cod shaped Portugal’s economy, exploration, and cuisine. Fishermen once risked their lives in brutal North Atlantic conditions, preserving their catch with salt so it could survive long journeys home. That preservation method turned cod into a national staple—affordable, transportable, and endlessly versatile.

What Is Bacalhau?

In Portugal, “bacalhau” means salted cod—not fresh fish. In fact, there isn’t really a commonly used everyday word for fresh cod in the same cultural sense. Bacalhau is the foundation of hundreds of traditional dishes, each reflecting regional tastes and history.

From coastal towns like Aveiro and Setúbal to northern hubs like Viana do Castelo and Porto, salted cod became a cornerstone of daily life. And over time, it evolved into one of the most iconic ingredients in Portuguese cuisine.

Why Do the Portuguese Love Salt Cod?

Before refrigeration, salting was essential. Cod fishing fleets spent weeks at sea, preserving their catch onboard. Once back in Portugal, the fish could last for weeks or months—feeding communities across the country.

That practicality turned into passion. Today, bacalhau is not just food—it’s tradition, memory, and identity. And yes, locals will tell you: cod loves olive oil.

2 Famous Bacalhau Dishes You Should Know

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá One of Portugal’s most beloved cod recipes, this dish comes from Porto and is named after 19th-century merchant José Luís Gomes de Sá. Made with flaked cod, onions, potatoes, eggs, and olives, it’s simple, rich, and deeply traditional.

Bacalhau à Lagareiro A classic from central Portugal, this dish is all about bold flavor. Roasted cod is served with potatoes, garlic, and generous amounts of olive oil—originally inspired by workers cooking meals near olive presses during harvest season. Crispy, smoky, and drenched in olive oil, it’s a must-try.

So, How Many Bacalhau Recipes Are There?

Ask 12 Portuguese people, and you’ll get 13 answers. That’s part of the charm.

What’s undeniable is this: bacalhau is more than a dish—it’s a symbol of Portugal. From the North Atlantic to Lisbon’s historic squares, its story is woven into the culture, cuisine, and identity of the country.

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