So many people go to explore the Douro River Valley, but stop at Pinhão. They are so close to a great region that has everything to offer, except tourist crowds.
The Trás-os-Montes, which translates to "Beyond the Mountains," is a picturesque and historically rich area set in northern Portugal, due east of Porto. Known for its rugged wild landscapes, traditional villages, and Celt cultural heritage, this region offers a truly authentic and off-the-beaten-path travel experience.
Here's a tip sheet to help you explore Portugal's Trás-os-Montes:
Getting There: The major gateway to Trás-os-Montes is through Porto, which has an international airport. From Porto, you can rent a car or take a train or bus to various towns within the region. The A4 highway makes for easy driving - but the Douro River Valley is a great entry point too.
Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Trás-os-Montes might be during the spring (April to June) and the early autumn (September to October). The weather is pleasant, and the landscapes are lush during these months.
Places to Visit:
Bragança: The region's capital, Bragança, is known for its medieval castle and walls and charming old town. Visit the Domus Municipalis, a unique circular building, and enjoy traditional cuisine in local restaurants.
Chaves: Famous for its thermal baths, Chaves offers relaxation and history. Explore the Roman Bridge, Chaves Castle, and the historical center.
Miranda do Douro: This town is known for its stunning views of the Douro River and its historical connection to the Mirandese language. Don't miss the Cathedral of Miranda do Douro and boat tours on the river.
Mogadouro: A tranquil village with white houses, castle and narrow streets, Mogadouro is a great place to experience the rural atmosphere of Trás-os-Montes.
Vila Real: This town is home to the impressive Mateus Palace, known for its Baroque architecture and beautiful gardens. The surrounding countryside also offers great opportunities for hiking.
Montesinho Natural Park: A paradise for nature lovers, this park features diverse landscapes, from mountains to valleys. It's perfect for hiking, birdwatching, and experiencing traditional rural life.
Cuisine: Trás-os-Montes is renowned for its hearty and flavorful cuisine. Don't miss the chance to try:
- Bísaro pork: A local breed, the Bísaro pig, produces delicious cured meats and sausages.
- Mirandese beef: This is a protected designation of origin and is known for its tender and succulent taste.
- Folar de Trás-os-Montes: A traditional bread made during Easter, often filled with meat, ham, or sausage.
- Olive oil: The region produces high-quality olive oil that's an essential part of its culinary culture.
Cultural Experiences:
Festivals: Experience local festivals, such as the Festa dos Caretos in Podence, known for its lively traditional masks and dances.
Handicrafts: Trás-os-Montes is known for its pottery, wool products, and intricate embroidery. Look for unique souvenirs in local markets.
Tips:
Language: While Portuguese is the official language, in some parts of Trás-os-Montes, you might encounter Mirandese, a local language with a unique cultural significance.
Accommodation: You'll find a variety of accommodation options, including charming guesthouses, rural cottages, and small hotels.
Transportation: While having a car is convenient for exploring the region, public transportation options like buses and trains connect most major towns.
You would be hard pressed to find a more charming town than Miranda do Douro. It has it all; ancient walls, medieval architecture, breathtaking views of the Douro River Gorge, great food, wines, and even its own dialect. Just missing one thing – tourists. Think of it as Volterra before the vampires... Close to the Spanish border, in the far northeast, Miranda do Douro is set amid the beauty of the Douro International Natural Park. The roots of Miranda date back to Celtic times. In the 8th century, the Moors named this site "Mir Andul". Its border location led D. Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, to order its fortification. The walls still stand, including part of the citadel and some sections of the city walls. This walled town is home to grand buildings testifying to the wealth of past times, including the Church of Santa Maria Maior, that held cathedral status throughout two centuries and was key to ensuring Miranda’s importance to the region.
Still, Miranda is known for its Celtic folk heritage featuring the Pauliteiro stick dancers in their traditional dresses. Celtic bagpipes accompany the performance and represent another legacy of the Iron Age Celtic settlement in this region. You can listen to the locals and discover the lost "Mirandês" language, unique to this wild and beautiful region.
Of Castles, Almonds and Trindade Coelho
The life of José Francisco Trindade Coelho is tied to the rugged Northeast of Portugal where he was born some 200 years ago. This Portuguese writer from the Trás-os-Montes region, born in 1861 in the town of Mogadouro. The town first became part of the kingdom of Portugal in the thirteenth century. The land was then ceded to the Order of the Knights Templar, who founded a castle here, although this now stands in ruins. As Trindade Coelho wrote, the best time to visit this region is in February/March, when the almond-trees are in blossom and the fields are covered with a blaze of white. These beautiful landscapes are best admired from the hilltops of the Serra da Castanheira or from the nearby castle of Penas Róias. Trindade Coelho was also a judge and a politician. His books chronicled the rural life of his childhood in Trás-os-Montes. He was a strong advocate for the end of Portugal's monarchy. In 1891, he wrote this of the Castle of Mogadouro, in Tipos da Terra - Os Meus Amores Up high, dominating the dark chimneys of the roof tops, the ancient castle,Roman in origin, was saddening with its fallen defenses, and vast walls in ruin.To its side rose stubbornlyan old clock tower,in a primitive style.It was 11 p.m., and it still read 7,that damned thing never got it right.
The story of Murça's stone pig
Murça is a village in Vila Real district, north of Portugal. Known for its wines and olive oil, the village preserves traces of the ancient times, maintaining the traditions of hunting, religious festivities and serving up cabrito (kid), cozido (boiled dinner) and salt codfish at the table.In the village's main square lies the stone Porca de Murça or Pig of Murça statue and many might wonder why. It is the stuff of legend, and there is even wonderful wine named after it. Porca de Murça is one of the Douro’s leading reds and one of Portugal’s oldest wine brands having been made for more than 85 years. The name originated from a folktale from the Douro Valley. It is also found on the town coat of arms.Says the legend that in the year 770, local hunters were faced with a fearless bear in the mountains. In times were the small village was surrounded by boars and strange beasts that stimulated hunters, this particular animal was giving them a hard time and the population was afraid of it. One man, though, was brave enough to confront it. A strong knight, he hunted the animal until he finally caught the beast, that was after all a boar and not a bear. The hunter dispatched the boar, and the town was able to breath easy again. Now known as Senhor de Murça, the statue was placed to honor the knight and the people who lived in the village would go there every month to place their offers for their salvation.
Great story, even of it is not at all true... The Porca de Murça is actually an ancient Celt worship statue from thousands of years ago. There are no clear of its origin stone boars, also called verracos, were common among the Pre-Roman peoples of the Iberian Peninsula. It is assumed that these boars had a protective religious meaning, perhaps guarding livestock or as burial markers. And they are pretty common in the Tras-os-Montes, with stone boars being found in Torre de Dona Chama, Parada and Bragança.
Jayme H. Simões is a communications strategist and longtime Portugal–U.S. consultant who has worked on tourism, relocation, and public affairs projects for more than two decades. He has spent extensive time living and working in Portugal and helps Americans understand the realities of moving abroad—beyond the glossy headlines. Through Let’s Move to Portugal Now, Jayme shares practical, experience-based insights on visas, housing, health care, cost of living, and daily life, with a focus on informed decision-making rather than hype.
Let’s Move to Portugal Now is an independent resource for Americans considering life in Portugal. We provide practical, experience-based information on visas, housing, health care, cost of living, and everyday life—focused on clarity, realism, and informed choices. This site is not affiliated with the Portuguese government and does not offer legal or immigration advice.
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