Located in Central Portugal near Coimbra, Vila Nova de Poiares is one of the country’s overlooked hidden gems, a small town surrounded by river valleys, mountain trails, forested hills, and traditional Portuguese food culture. For travelers and expats seeking authentic Portugal beyond Lisbon and Porto, Poiares offers affordable rural charm, outdoor adventure, wellness retreats, and some of the best traditional food in the Coimbra region.
Poiares offers a range of accommodation options to suit all budgets, from simple bed-and-breakfasts to small hotels. But one standout stay is 9Arches, a restored 18th-century Portuguese family home in the village of Venda Nova. This rural property, complete with a swimming pool, sauna, steam bath, and gardens, makes for the perfect countryside escape. It’s designed for intimate stays (up to 14 guests) but can host up to 40 people for retreats and gatherings. Next door is the famous Medas chicken eatery, home of some seriously good roasted chicken.
A Town Rich in Character and Flavor
Vila Nova de Poiares rewards visitors with a blend of small-town charm, natural beauty, and tasty food. The Jardim Municipal is a shady public park perfect for picnics and family strolls, while the Rio Ceira invites swimming, kayaking, and fishing.
But the true flavour of the town is found on the plate. Vila Nova de Poiares is especially famous for Chanfana, one of Central Portugal’s most iconic traditional dishes. Made from slow-cooked goat marinated in red wine, garlic, bay leaf, and spices, Chanfana is deeply associated with the Coimbra and Beira Litoral regions. Every January, the town hosts the Semana da Chanfana festival, attracting food lovers from across Portugal.
A Landscape Made for Exploration
The surrounding hills, forests, and rivers make Vila Nova de Poiares a prime destination for hikers. Some standout trails include:
Serra da Lousã Hiking Trail – A challenging 20 km route through mountains, waterfalls, and traditional villages.
Aldeias do Xisto Trail – 12 km of pure heritage, winding through shale-built villages and stunning viewpoints.
Fragas de São Simão Trail – 7 km showcasing waterfalls and dramatic rock formations.
Penedos de Góis Trail – 14 km of forested hills, historic hamlets, and breathtaking views.
River Beaches and Outdoor Life in Central Portugal
The Rio Ceira and nearby river beaches (praias fluviais) are among the area’s greatest assets. In summer, locals gather along the river for swimming, kayaking, fishing, and picnics beneath shaded trees. Central Portugal’s river beaches have become increasingly popular as alternatives to crowded Atlantic beaches, offering cooler inland temperatures and a more relaxed pace of life.
The 9Arches Experience
One standout accommodation is 9Arches, a restored 18th-century manor house in the village of Venda Nova near Vila Nova de Poiares. Popular with wellness travelers, retreat groups, hikers, and visitors exploring Central Portugal, the property combines historic Portuguese architecture with modern comforts including a heated swimming pool, sauna, steam bath, gardens, and wellness programming. With 9Arches as your base, you’re not just visiting; you’re stepping into a piece of Portugal’s living heritage. Back at 9Arches, days are made for unwinding—lounging by the heated pool, enjoying a massage or foot detox, or sipping wine beneath the estate’s iconic nine arches. In summer, you might stumble into Bikini Day pool gatherings; in spring, perhaps a blues concert or a classical recital. Every event here reflects the property’s ethos: blending Portuguese tradition with warm hospitality.
Next door sits the locally beloved Medas chicken restaurant, known throughout the Coimbra region for traditional Portuguese charcoal-roasted chicken. Places like this are part of what makes inland Portugal special — simple local restaurants with loyal followings, generous portions, and deeply regional flavors rarely experienced by mass-market tourists.
Why This Place Stays With You
Vila Nova de Poiares is more than a stop on the map—it’s a place where life slows to the rhythm of river water and church bells, where the food is honest, and where the surrounding landscapes invite you to wander.
Getting there: Vila Nova de Poiares sits just 20 km east of Coimbra, a city known for its grand setting and one of the oldest universities in the world. The nearest airport is in Porto, about 175 km away; you can hire a car or take a bus from Porto to Poiares. Coimbra is a mere 40 minutes away by car or the new Metro Mondego, while Lisbon is around two hours by car.
If you’re craving a blend of wellness, culture, and rural beauty, this is one hidden corner of Portugal worth seeking out—before everyone else does.
Jayme H. Simões is a Portugal–U.S. communications consultant who writes about the realities of moving, living, and retiring in Portugal, based on first hand experience.
Let’s Move to Portugal Now is an independent resource for Americans considering life in Portugal. We provide practical, experience-based information on visas, housing, health care, cost of living, and everyday life—focused on clarity, realism, and informed choices. This site is not affiliated with the Portuguese government and does not offer legal or immigration advice.
© Let’s Move to Portugal Now. All rights reserved.