When we first set foot in our Monte in the Alentejo, it was with the dream of creating a family retreat—a place to spend time together, connect with friends, and feel rooted in a land that had long held my heart. Now, three years later, what began as an idea born of loss and longing has evolved into something richer: a way of life.
From Idea to Reality
The seed was planted back in 2017, after a wildfire destroyed my family’s ancestral home in Vila nova de Poaires. It felt like the ending of a generational link, and with our eldest son heading off to university, we knew it was time to create a new gathering place. As a Luso-American, Portugal had always been part of me. Childhood summers passing through in the Alentejo had imprinted its cork forests, golden plains, and slow rhythms into my imagination. I love its food, people and so many castles.
By the time COVID reshaped our world, remote work made the possibility of living here more real. The Alentejo—spacious, unhurried, authentic—called to us. Still, making it happen was far from simple.
A Long Search
In 2021, we spent three weeks driving backroads, navigating the “Wild West” of Portuguese real estate—unanswered calls from agents, listings that didn’t match reality, and the occasional surprise gem. We were drawn to the region between Estremoz and Alandroal, with its mix of history, neighborly warmth, and access to Lisbon. Eventually, we found it: a centuries-old Monte set among olive trees and lives oaks. But we bid without setting foot on its soil, and were a but surprised when the seller took our bid. sight unseen, we had us a Monte! Oh, what's a Monte? A typical linear one floor Alentejo farmhouse. But ours had 5 bedrooms, 5 baths - and so much we did not expect - with a marble-carved 3rd century Roman tomb, a pigeon house, more than 15 acres of land and several ruins.
Settling In and Finding Our Place
Those first months were filled with learning curves—how to manage all that land, deal with utilities, and navigate local bureaucracy. But over time, these became part of the rhythm. We found a reliable builder who respected timelines (a rarity in expat lore), made Portuguese friends who shared tips and laughter, and even picked up some local gossip from the locals.
Estremoz revealed itself as more than a postcard-perfect town—it became a community. Local markets, neighborhood cafés, and festivals gave us an anchor in daily life. We learned that speaking the language opens not just doors, but hearts.
Three Years Later
With time, the Monte has become more than just ours—it’s part of a living landscape. We’ve seen wildflowers blanket the fields in spring, watched the sheep meander the fields, and hosted friends who now carry their own Alentejo memories home. The property no longer feels like a project—it feels like home. We also have met a wide variety of expats from all over - diverse and dedicated to our community. Best of all, these were not the type of folks we would have been drawn to at home in the US, and their POV opened our viewpoints as well.
Oh and the food - fresh local and honest. I have never felt so healthy, and have gone from shock that things spoil in a few days to concern that things in the US do not.
We’ve also gained perspective on what it means to belong. Portugal hasn’t bent to our will; we’ve adapted to its ways. That’s been the real gift. The slower pace, the patience in conversation, the appreciation for what’s here rather than what’s missing—these have changed us. And brought our family together.
Lessons for Anyone Dreaming of the Same
If you’re considering a move here, know that Portugal will welcome you—but on its own terms. Come ready to listen, learn, and ask yourself not just what can this place give me? but what can I give back? Respect the land, the people, and the culture that was here long before you arrived.
Because in the end, you won’t change Portugal. But if you’re lucky—like we’ve been—Portugal will change you.
